all the king's men

After the turtle experience, Mike and I said to each other, “well, that’s probably going to be one of the coolest things to happen to us in Pohnpei, it’s all pretty much downhill from here.” We were so naïve.  Two days later, our group had planned a trip to Nan Madol, the ruins of an ancient civilization that rival the mystery and grandeur of the pyramids.  Seriously, the “Venice of the Pacific” consists of hundreds of structures made from stones that are not only the size of cars but also made from rock that cannot be found anywhere else on the island.  Anyway, if you want to approach Nan Madol the proper way, you have to ask permission from the Nahmwarki of Madolenihmw (Mad-oh-leh-neem), the traditional king of that municipality (there are five municipalities on Pohnpei - I’ll be in Kitti).  This particular ruler also holds the distinction of being the most powerful of all the Nahmwarkis – so basically the most powerful non-politician in all of Pohnpei.  Regardless, he still influences state government to an enormous extent.  

Luckily, our language instructor, Tony, knows the special language and customs required to communicate with these kings – because he is also a high-titled man.  We were given the tremendous opportunity to respectfully greet this man at his house in Madolenihmw and tour the room where massive parties (well, ceremonies) are held.  I think he must have liked us because he invited us to his ocean-side hut where sakau is made and presented to him.  Furthermore, Mike and I were asked to pound the sakau roots with Tony and another man in a traditional sakau ceremony.  Although we were supposed to ride a boat out to Nan Madol, we postponed this for two hours because it is unpardonably disrespectful to say no to a Nahmwarki (and to pass up such an opportunity).

The Nahmwarki's house in Madolenihmw.  The party section is on the right.

Aside: sakau is a muddy (looking and tasting), thick, peppery drink that is extremely important to the Pohnpeian culture.  When you invite someone to drink sakau with you, you are showing them a huge amount of respect and these occasions can last well into the night and assuage many conflicts.  

Mike's head floating in a cup of sakau.  This photo was taken on the previous night at a sakau bar which is owned by a family hosting one of our volunteers.

For this reason, I was completely taken back by this invitation by the Nahmwarki.  I felt a mixture of anxiousness, excitement, and honor as I prepared to partake in the preparation for this intimate Pohnpeian tradition.  After we made the sakau with the two other men, Mike and I drank from the cup of sakau as it was passed around the circle several times.  It is something that I’m sure very few foreigners have had a chance to experience, let alone with the high Nahmwarki.  Although we have a long year ahead of us, I think that this time it is safe to say that nothing we do can top that.  The eventual trip to Nan Madol and even the Ant Atoll the next day (other things that were insanely awesome) paled in comparison.  I left out a lot of details because frankly, the experience that day is hard to put into words.  Pictures from Nan Madol and Ant Atoll shall be up soon!

Mike and I pounding sakau root with Tony and another man.  Only men are allowed to go anywhere near sakau as it is being prepared and shirts must be taken off (I wasn't complaining!).  The Nahmwarki is looking on in the background.

Another angle.  Our leader/tour guide/language instructor, Tony, is in the middle.

This is a picture also taken at the sakau bar.  The pounded sakau roots are mixed with water to make them a little goopy and laid inside strips of hibiscus bark.

The goopy root juice is squeezed through the hibiscus bark by twisting it to make the finished drink.  A little weird to drink at first, but it is very popular here - to the point of being a problem for those who have become addicted.