when pigs fly

In several of my science classes, we discussed the bottleneck effect, where some sort of natural disaster kills a large percentage of a population and thus reduces their genetic diversity.  Many times, the Pingelap Atoll (an outer island about 180 miles from Pohnpei) was the subject of discussion because of a terrible typhoon that almost wiped out the whole island in the late 1700s.  One of the few survivors had an extremely rare genetic disease called achromatopsia  and as the island was repopulated, the incidence of this disorder was more prevalent than almost anywhere else in the world.  In the scientific community, the atoll is quite well known, and it had become a distant but passionate goal of mine to visit Pingelap one day.  On December 26^th, six other volunteers and I got the opportunity to board a supply ship headed there for the holidays. 

For only $11, we boarded the Caroline Voyager or as I like to call it, the Hell Express.  Along with a full cargo of gasoline barrels, rice, pigs, chickens, and people, we boarded the cramped boat and departed after the sun had set in the evening.  Our tickets afforded us – at least nominally – a spot under a tent on the deck of the ship.  The only problem was that we got there after every spot had pretty much been taken by passengers and their belongings.  It was about a 12 hour overnight journey to Mwokil and I had a solid 5x2 ft area of space to sleep.  Since we were on the front end of the ship, our tent was breaking all of the wind – many of the people sleeping on the edges of the deck got quite a rude awakening from the mighty body slam of a Pacific gust.  Not to mention, as our ship nose dived into extremely disconcerting swells, blasts of salt water would shoot through the openings and soak everyone not wearing a rain jacket (me).  Several times throughout the night, I had to wipe away the salt crystals crusting my face.  I awoke once to find that my feet were in the product of someone else’s seasickness and don’t even get me started about the trials of trying to use the bathroom in the middle of the night.

Believe it or not, this is before things got crowded inside the tent.

Early in the morning in Mwokil.  The tent behind Gabrielle can be seen at the apex of one its wallops it was delivering to the passengers.

I got up around 5am, stepped out of the tent, and was greeted by one of the most beautiful starry skies I’ve ever seen, phosphorescing fish surrounding the ship, and the dim outlines of a coconut tree-framed island a few hundred yards to the East of our bow.  As the sun began to rise over the sliver of land we had somehow arrived at, a parade of small 15-horsepower boats approached the ship to start ferrying supplies from the ship to Mwokil Atoll.  We stayed until late-morning off-loading huge packages of food, supplies, and oil drums that were taken individually by boat back to the beach.  In the meantime, we passed time trying to find the highest structures on the ship to make giant leaps and flips from – these ship captains will let you do just about anything you want.  Eventually, we pulled up anchor and made a 6 or 7 hour voyage to Pingelap where we arrived in the evening.

Pigs were literally flying as we offloaded in Mwokil.  Carefully positioned boats aside our ship retrieved the cargo as it was hoisted by a crane.

Taken in the evening from our ship as we approached Pingelap.  The strip of land lacking trees is the Pingelap airstrip.  To the right of the airstrip is where Aida and Ehlis live, and behind the airstrip is the very small lagoon.

We were greeted by several large bonfires on the beach that reminded us that there were actually people living out there in such a remote part of the ocean.  Once we made it ashore, we were greeted by Aida (pronounced Ida) one of the most entrepreneurial islanders I’ve ever met who started the first hotel on Pingelap (Neime Beach Resort) and ran the movie theater (a tiny room filled with benches and a TV).  We were actually to be the first patrons of the Neime Beach Resort which was just finished in the recent months.  The hotel was located at the tip of the Pingelap airstrip, on the beach, adjacent to the airport terminal (a four-walled structure with a solar-panel and a radio).  Aida and Ehlis Earnest were some of the most hospitable and generous people I’ve ever met.  For a mere $5 a night and $2.50 for three square meals a day, we stayed on their property and in my opinion grew to be very close.  Their English was exceptionally good – in part, I think, to a more disciplined educational system in Pingelap and because they were host to the Peace Corps volunteers in past years.

The Neime Beach Resort where we stayed.  Gabrielle and i stayed in the open-walled hut in the forefront and Mike and Joe stayed in the one behind us.  The ocean is just out of the frame to the right.

The main road that stretches along the Southern island.  Much of Pingelap consists of abandoned houses - remnants of more populous days.

A large church where a wedding was held during our stay.

Two men looking West at a view they only get to see once or twice a year.

 During our stay, we passed the time complimenting Aida on her delicious meals, snorkeling, swimming, fishing, hiking all the way around the atoll, and staring up at the diamonds suspended in the night sky.  Ehlis also indulged me in a fishing trip outside the reef that his brother, Hosan, took us on at 6 in the morning.  Due to the gas availability and horsepower constraints of his engine, we only caught a dozen or so fish; but it was amazing to be out in the swells watching the sun rise lazily above the thick jungle sprouting out of the water in the distance.  I was snapped out of my daze when a bite on my line almost ripped me out of the boat.  I struggled to reel in the 100 lb line by hand and found that I had caught a 3-4 ft ugly sonofabitch that I later discovered was a very delicious Maimai (pronounced my-my).  Ehlis spent 10 minutes trying to beat the thing into submission and we turned the boat back to the land, satisfied with our catch.

When we got back to the beach, I was anointed a Pingelapese fisherman in their true cultural tradition.  Six or seven people waited for me – I spotted Aida approaching me with a smile and hands outstretched.  Thinking I was getting a hug, I leaned in and she yanked me out of the boat into the shallow waters with a hearty laugh.  Without hesitation, she started splashing me with water and continued by pouring half a bottle of coconut oil into my hair and rubbing it all over my face.  She concluded by lovingly bestowing hand-made flower mwaramwars and a flower lei over my head and around my neck.  Taken aback, but amused, I posed for pictures that the Pingelapese mayor insisted we take.  Although it’s possible I was part of a big practical joke, I was glad to see that they were keeping their cultural traditions alive. 

After returning from the fishing trip in the early morning and being traditionally welcomed.  Ehlis and Aida Earnest are holding tunas on the right; Hosan and a woman I don't know are on the left.  The picture was taken by the mayor who insisted that I email it to him.

We reluctantly left Pingelap on the 31^st and spent New Years on a listing ship, but I felt so fortunate for the past week.  The island is experiencing another sort of bottleneck effect as an enormous percentage of the population is abandoning their home for a more modern lifestyle in Pohnpei (less than 250 people now reside in Pingelap).  But, hopefully the island itself will survive rising sea levels and typhoons long enough for me to return one day.

On the Northern end of the Southern Atoll, with our backs facing the channel.  One of the most incredible spots in the world.

The moon waited for its turn to set after the sun was finished.